L-Cheapo Laser Kit Mount for Rostock Max (V2)
Full Name heathenx
Location Somewhere, Indiana
|RostockMax_L-Cheapo_Laser_Mount_01.stl||2002||559 kB||on 4/8/14||Download|
|RostockMax_L-Cheapo_Laser_Mount_02.stl||1934||162 kB||on 4/8/14||Download|
|RostockMax_L-Cheapo_Laser_Mount_03.stl||1991||180 kB||on 4/8/14||Download|
|RostockMax_L-Cheapo_Laser_Mount_01.stp||1920||60 kB||on 4/8/14||Download|
|RostockMax_L-Cheapo_Laser_Mount_03.stp||1924||22 kB||on 4/8/14||Download|
|RostockMax_L-Cheapo_Laser_Mount_02.stp||1912||10 kB||on 4/8/14||Download|
|RostockMax_L-Cheapo_Laser_Mount.jpg||2320||3.1 MB||on 4/8/14||Download|
|sample.jpg||2325||901 kB||on 4/8/14||Download|
|rostockmax_l-cheapo_laser_mount2.png||1103||207 kB||on 6/10/14||Download|
For those that have purchased an L-Cheapo laser kit, I have made a mount for it. It basically just attaches to the underside of the effector plate.
You will need longer #6-32 screws that fasten the hotend to the effector. I bought a package of 2-1/2" long screws that I just cut to size with some wire strippers. Most wire strippers have machine screw (US) cutters on them that are handy for this type of thing. You'll also need some #6-32 flat-head screws about a 1/4" long (or buy long and cut to size) and some #6-32 pan-head screws that are about 5" or 6" long. Again, you'll have to cut those to length. I think I cut mine to about 4-3/4" long. I lathe cut the small stand-offs but you can 3D print them too. They will have to be tapped all the way thru with a #6-32 tap. I wired my laser into my hotend wires...the big ones. A simple M104 S254 turns the laser on and an M104 S0 turns it off. I use Inkscape to draw my artwork and a laser gcode extension that can be found here: http://polakiumengineering.org/1000-portable-3d-printer-laser-cutter/ The extension is just a modified version of the JTechPhotonics extension, which is a very simiplified version of the laser cutting extension in the CGodeTools extensions. It's been my experience that polakiumengineering.org's extension works the best. Once you export the gcode then you can plop that right into Repetier Host and print over USB. I plan to do a short how-to soon that I will post to YouTube eventually. Ref. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=6001
Attribution - Creative Commons
heathenx - on 6/10/14
A magnetic mount for this can be found here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6180&p=50562#p50562
heathenx - on 22/9/14
Sorry, Rob. I usually miss these comments. Regarding you not getting through 3mm acrylic, I've found that not all acrylic is the same. I have some red 3mm from one mfg that barely etches and won't cut. The stuff that does work is the stuff from Tapp Plastics and Inventables. I'm sure there are other sources for acrylic but I haven't research it yet. I've tested red and green only. In my experiments, red cuts much better than green.
Rob - on 8/9/14
Pretty nice heath. I did print the spacers and the ring in one piece though rather than having to use the 1/4 inch screws. I appreciate all the work you did on the Gcode for the Rostock and the very thorough video series. That saved me a lot of head scratching. So far I have managed to cut some thin hardboard and etch some wood. Having a little trouble with 3mm acrylic though and getting the focal height just right. I'll practice more.
heathenx - on 22/8/14
McMaster Carr. By the way, there should be (4) short flat-head screws in the exploded image (not 3 like I have it shown).
jesse - on 18/8/14
hey, i just got my kit in the mail. where did you get the #6-32 x 6 inch screws?
Sign in to add a comment.
Views Downloads 10807 19595
- Report as inappropriate